|
Before I get
started here, let me offer a caveat: This series is no longer in
print (hasn't been for a long time, actually), and that is a damn shame.
You can still find them here and there at your local thrift store,
which, to quote the imprisoned Martha Stewart, "is a very good thing."
See, there is SOOOOOOO much information contained in this set of books,
that you might not even need to go to culinary school to know all there
is to know about cooking.
Okay, that's
a lie, but there is a grain of truth in that statement.
Most
cookbooks you buy nowadays are not a whole lot more than a set of
recipes that either A) the author came up with on a whim, B) the author
came up with over the course of his career, or C) recipes developed by
the author's staff that the author approved for inclusion in a book.
(According to my chef instructor at school, there's at least a 50
percent chance that the recipes you see in cookbooks won't work, i.e.
crappy results.) So these books aren't teaching you anything about
cooking, but rather are teaching you how to follow recipes. Any
idiot can do that, and it's insulting to those of us who actually want
to *learn* about food.
The Food of the World
series, published in the late 60s and early 70s, was a collection of 28
cookbooks plus recipe books based on various cooking genres around the
planet. They covered everything from Russian food to Japanese,
Middle Eastern to Provincial France. And, since it was published
by an American company, there are no fewer than six cookbooks dedicated
exclusively to American cuisine. For food nerdy cooks like me,
these books are freakin' GOLD.
Lemme explain something.
When I read a cookbook, I don't want to read recipes. Not only can
any idiot follow a recipe, any idiot can come up with a "recipe" for
something that may or may not work. It's still a recipe, it just
might suck or (more politely) it might not suit your palate. The
Food of the World books don't bombard you with recipes, instead
they take you on a trip through all these different styles of cooking,
so that you can learn about how these people cook, or what ingredients
are native to their country/region and when those ingredients are in
season and at the top of their flavour. To me, THAT's what's
important. Once I know that, I can make up my own recipes using
those ingredients, or incorporate some of the ingredients into some sort
of fusion recipe.
And that's what's offered
here. Each book checks in around 200 pages, and they do include a
token amount of recipes after each chapter (in case, like me, you can't
find the recipe books anywhere and still would like to cook
Switzerland's berneplatte). But they also have a ton of
pictures of people enjoying food (my favourite picture so far has been
in the Japanese book--go figure--of a delivery "driver" balancing about
15 lacquered bento boxes and stuff on one arm whilst riding his fricking
BIKE through downtown Tokyo) and little sidebars of additional
information, like festivals that demand a specific sort of chow.
What I like most about
these books is that they're fueling my fire to get out there and check
out some food that I otherwise wouldn't have paid a second thought to.
I'd love to try out some "cod head and shoulders" (cod's head stuffed
with cooked roe, onions and parsley, popular in the British Isles),
gari foto (a West African dish of eggs, ground meal and tomatoes) or
kvas (a Russian beer made by soaking brown sourdough in water for
a couple days). Come on, how cool is is that? Tell me Tony
Bourdain didn't get some of his inspiration for "A Cook's Tour" by
reading these books.
About the only thing
these books lack is timeliness, as over 30 years has passed since their
printing. Fortunately, the recipes, ingredients and methodology
that are inscribed on the pages are traditions that have been handed
down since before the country was an officially recognized country.
The fashions have changed, the landscape has changed, hell, the whole
society has changed, but great-great-great-great gramma's recipe hasn't.
THAT's important. That's what defines a culture when it comes to
culinary arts. It's the sort of stuff that Emeril couldn't
possibly hope to code down in his latest set of lab-tested recipes that
he's never seen before. You want to know the true meaning of
cooking? The way that your mom and her dad and his mom and her mom
did stuff? Check these books out.
Rating: Fancy Book
Learnin' out of 10
|